Sayulita is out on the edge of the peninsula, over an hour away by bus. We went there because we heard of a farmer’s market taking place, and I figured Laura would like the look of the town. I visited Sayulita several times during my first stay in Mexico, and it’s a beautiful place. I was looking forward to seeing how much it had changed in nine years.
We arrived on bus, and we had to ask some locals how to find the farmer’s market. “Organico,” they called it. Down the dirt road, along the dry river bank, and across the bridge. We could hear it going on as we approached the bridge. Live music, lots of pavilions.
Upon walking into the market from the street, we were bathed in the ambiance of alternative culture. Farmer’s markets are great examples of agorism in action. People freely associating, trading their goods, having a nice time. Food and drinks for sale, produce, hand crafted goods, preserves, and art.
We walked around the loop, seeing what our options were. We decided to buy fresh ingredients for a picnic style lunch, which we would take at the tables by the band. The music was mostly in English, from classic rock to blues and bluegrass. The trumpet player was really adding a nice zest to the mix, I found.
The girls love farmer’s market and the free environment they tend to have at them. They wandered around and looked for things they wanted, and enjoyed our hummus, cheese, avocado, and spinach tostadas.
We were pleased to hear that our friends Ian and Kris were going to join us. We met them in Acapulco, and they were now renting a house not far from Sayulita. They showed up right as we finished eating, and we let them take our table so they could then eat, while we hung around chatted in the grass. Ian and Kris have two boys, Zephyr and Niko, who love our girls. They’re younger than Eva and Gaia, and Zephyr, the older, is particularly keen on playing with them. It’s fun watching them all together. All we need now is a village…
Crystal, who told us about this market at her organic store in Puerto Vallarta, had a booth there, and we spoke with her for a time. Laura spoke with several other expats about Sayulita and life in Mexico. We were surrounded by people we feel we can identify with, and it always feel good to me to be in what I consider to be an enclave of new paradigm culture.
After the market we walked down to the beach with our friends. We rented over-priced beach umbrellas and laid out our beach blanket. In spite of Eva’s earlier decision that she was over the beach, she had a blast, spending over an hour out in the waves. The other kids had great fun playing in the sand, digging a big hole and building a wall around it. Lila in particular loves playing in the sand.
Stray dogs wander about like beach bums. It becomes difficult to tell the difference between the strays and the unleashed pets, as dogs run about playing and barking. One dog was particularly keen on this big rock that he wanted someone to throw. He would just bark and bark at it, and at everyone else. If you tried to pick it up, he resisted, but if you threw it, he was just thrilled. And suddenly completely attached to you. At one point I got the rock from him and ran with it all the way down the beach to the end, near the rocky parts. I had to juke and weave the whole way because he was jumping up and nipping for the rock out of my hands. I heaved it as far as I could, some hundred yards away from our spot. Then I ran back as fast as I could.
We had a moment of respite, but sure enough, the dog came back with the rock. This time he got attached to someone else and the drama continued.
It was a nice day on the beach. As evening came on we got hungry, so we headed to town for dinner. Plenty of options in Sayulita. The main square and the streets between it and the beach are packed with shops and restaurants. The food was good, and we had a bit of peaceful evening to talk, with most of the kids sitting at their own table. Towards the end of the night, when many of the kids were up and playing, a guy carrying a guitar down came down the sidewalk. When he passed our table, he reached right out and picked up a taco, which was Eva’s. She was shocked and called him out. He casually put it back and kept going. He was just going to gank it! Beach bums.
We said good bye to Ian and Kris and made plans to meet again. Niko had a birthday coming up, and they had a house near the beach where we could come hang out. We still had to figure out where we were going to live, but I didn’t pass by chances to hang out with people. Ian and Kris would be staying for a month, though I only had a few more days left before I was to return to the States, so I wanted as much time with them as possible. We all felt a strong connection and we talked about potential collaborations, with all the goals we have in common.
Sayulita has changed, though it still has much the same feel. It’s kind of a party town, I suppose, though there’s a definite hippie feel to the local scene, which I like. The organic counter-culture exists all over the world, and I’ve been around it in places like Argentina, Costa Rica, and Mexico, but it’s a small club, and there’s huge room and need for growth. Agorism can only properly take place once people learn to prioritize their health and take more responsibility for their purchases. In a truly free market, toxic products will never be able to compete with quality handcrafted goods.
So support your local markets! Let’s focus on what we want to see more of, and let’s create the kind of world we actually want to live in.